how to repair laptop power cord

[Solution] How to Fix Laptop Power Cord

1. Tools Required.
2. Get Started!. Begin by ensuring that your power cord is disconnected from both your laptop and from the wall...
3. Open the Power Brick. Depending on the manufacturer power bricks are held closed in a variety of ways. Some have...
4. Remove the Enclosure. Now that you have cut through the entire seam,...

Full Answer

How to fix laptop adapter and power cord?

• Remove the laptop battery and power cord.
• Hold down the power button on the laptop for 20 – 30 seconds.
• Replace the battery and boot up the laptop.
• Once powered on, plug the power cord into the laptop and see if it charges.

How to fix a broken power jack on your laptop?

Step 2: Materials Required

1. Soldering iron (25W)
2. Multimater (optional)
3. Small screw drivers: 1set
4. Pen
5. Paper
6. New DC jack*
7. Thermal compound (often used for computer)
8. Disposable cups x6
9. Desoldering braid ($5 at RadioShack)

How to figure out laptop power suplly cord?

Make sure you're using the correct USB-C charge cable

• If the first three characters of the serial number are C4M or FL4, the cable is for use with an Apple USB-C Power Adapter up to 61W.
• If the first three characters of the serial number are DLC, CTC, FTL, or G0J, the cable is for use with an Apple USB-C Power Adapter up to 100W.
• If the cable says "Designed by Apple in California. ...

Can I patch my laptop power cable?

The RCA, HDMI cords that connect to your Television systems also can be narrated as the patch cables. Normally being the Cat5 or Cat5e Ethernet cables, the patch cables do the job to connect two mediums like a computer, a router, a hub or a switch. They are generally of stranded type cables, and so they provide more durability than the other types.

Step 1: Set Up and Evaluation

Tools I used: Chisel, Hacksaw, Electrical tape (or shrink tubing), wire cutters and/or strippers, flat head screwdriver (preferably sharp-ish and wide-ish), optional: two monkey wrenches for prying. Time: It took me about 1 hour, most of which was spent figuring out how to pry open the adapter box.

Step 2: Break the Box: Getting Into the Adapter

It took many techniques to figure out how to open up the adapter box. The plastic was too weak to crack open w/ just a screwdriver. It just scratched with pressure, while the seam remained firmly bonded. So, I managed to create a deep groove around the entire seam w/ a chisel.

Step 3: HP Adapter Insides

This is the precious inside. Top view and bottom view. I pretty much didn't open up any further than this and I tried to avoid any damage to any parts inside.

Step 4: Fixing the Cord

The cord was coiled up slightly inside the box. I pulled it out all the way. Cut the cord at the end of the rubber spring thing (aka "strain relief") where the cord was breaking. Then I tried stripping off the "strain relief" w/ pliers...

Step 5: Close Up Shop, May Add Reenforcements

Finally, I got to shut-er up. Unfortunately, I didn't have the benefit of an adapter box that locked shut or was fused or glued shut, so I got clever with some duck tape and Black e-tape for finishing. Some commenters have innovated and closed up the adapter box w/ a glue-gun.

Step 1: Cut Out the Badness

This whole process should only take about 10 minutes or so. Begin with plugging in your soldering iron and unplugging the laptop power adapter. Start looking at the cord and see if you can find the problem section, in my case it was pretty obvious (See picture).

Step 2: Begin Stripping

So now you should have two cut pieces of your power cord. Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing down onto one of the pieces of wire and move it out of the way for later on. Take a wire stripping tool or a pair of scissors and begin peeling back the insulation from the wires.

Step 3: Add Some Heat

So now you should have both sides stripped and the individual strands twisted together. Take the center wire from both sides and twist them both together. Then add a bit of solder with the now hot soldering iron (It should still be plugged in from step 1), and tape off the wires with electrical tape once it cools.

Step 4: Finally!

Leave your last connection without any electrical tape on it to make sure everything works. You may want to carefully test your adapter now in order to make sure that all the connections are secure. Plug the adapter into a surge strip and keep your hand on the power switch to make sure you can kill power quickly.

Step 1: Slice Off the Old Sheath

Unplug the charger! Slice away the old rubber sheath. Underneath there is the metal plug, and it should have 2 wires soldered to it. One is the center of the wire from the charger, and the other is a short one that connects to the metal strands from the outer part of the charger.

Step 2: Slide Things on for Future Use

You will need the magnet on the wire as well as the large pieces of heat shrink tubing on the cord for later. Slide the magnet first, then the heat shrink tubing.

Step 3: Figure Out Which Wire Goes Where

On my connector the negative is the outer part of the connector and the center is the positive. In the cable the negative is the sheath of strands, and the middle wire is the positive. I think both are normal. There is a diagram on the transformer box as well, pictured below. You can use a multimeter to insure you have the wires correct.

Step 4: Solder the Connections

In the fist picture below the outer part is still connected, but I cut away the tubing i had installed before. Slide the new tubing onto the wire, and solder them in.

Step 5: Test Plug in Laptop

Plug everything in and see if the charging light turns on. It should work now. If it does, leave it plugged in and slide the first piece of large tubing down the cord and line it up with the computer. The metal on the plug sticks way out, so it is good to do this while plugged in.

Step 6: Build the Connector

Slide up the other tubes one at at time and shrink them in place. The tube gets tight and hard when it shrinks, so it holds the wires in place, and makes your new connector resist bending and breaking. Below is my connector with all 5 large tubes shrunk on. It feels pretty solid.

Step 7: Install the Magnet

I don't really know what the magnet is for, but the manufacturer thought it was important enough to put it on, so I did too. I slid it to about the location in was before and zip tied it tightly in place with the two zip ties.